Quantifying Optically Derived Two-Dimensional Wave-Averaged Currents in the Surf Zone

Quantification of Two-Dimensional Wave Breaking Dissipation in the Surf Zone from Remote Sensing Data

A method for obtaining two dimensional fields of wave breaking energy dissipation in the surfzone is presented. The method relies on acquiring geometrical parameters of the wave roller from remote sensing data. These parameters are then coupled with a dissipation model to obtain time averaged two dimensional maps, but also the wave breaking energy dissipation on a wave-by-wave basis. Comparison...

Wave-Driven Longshore Currents in the Surf Zone Hydrodynamic validation of Delft3D

Recent study has shown that 3D computations of the morphological development of a coast shows irregularities compared with the 2DH (depth-averaged) computations. Therefore a validation of the surf zone currents computed using the 2DH (depth-averaged) and 3D approach in Delft3D is made. The 2DH and 3D approach are compared using an idealized case and validated using data from the laboratory expe...

Numerical Investigation of the Structure of Density Currents in a two Dimensional Channel

Wave Group Forcing of Low Frequency Surf Zone Motion

The nearshore potential vorticity balance of Bowen and Holman (1989) is expanded to include the forcing from wave group-induced radiation stresses. Model results suggest that the forcing from these radiation stresses can drive oscillations in the longshore current that have a spatial structure similar to linear shear instabilities of the longshore current. In addition, the forced response is ne...

Surf Zone Wave Breaking Identification Using Marine Radar

This paper presents a novel combination of synchronous, large coverage marine radar, calibrated pulsed Doppler radar, and video remote sensing observations from a nearshore field site. The data enable the analysis of the evolution and characteristics of the remotely observed signals from surf zone waves. The combination of different remote sensors allows a better discrimination between breaking...